Ukc articles. ' The 1960s was arguably the coolest decade ever. He has filled his long and interesting life with climbing, sailing, church ministerial duties, youth work and military service in the Royal Jul 27, 2023 · UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Nathaniel Soon OPINION: The 9A Revolution: How the Near Impossible Became Attainable 28 Jul ARTICLE: What is the Hardest Single Move Ever Done in Climbing? 9 May, 2023 ARTICLE: The Next 9c in the World will be… 27 Feb, 2023 ARTICLE: 2022 - The Year in Rock Climbing Ascents 30 Dec, 2022 Latest Articles Features The Climbing Wall Award (CWA) qualifies you to teach climbing on artificial structures and walls. A restless child with a penchant for climbing the sandstone walls of his parents' tenement house, John later found himself at the centre of Scotland's notorious Creagh Dhu Club, nicknamed 'the Glencoe Mafia': a group of toughened Glaswegian climbers whose grit was born out of the Great Depression of the 1920s and 30s. The qualification rounds and finals for Under 13s and Under 17s took place on Saturday, followed by the qualification rounds and finals for Under 15s and U Following on from her article earlier in the month detailing her top five physical techniques for shorter climbers, Tina Breslin explores some psychological approaches to help climbers of all sizes, but which might be particularly helpful for those at the shorter end of the spectrum! The first article in a series of three, Olly Tippett provides an introduction to his Big Wall Skills series, including an introduction to the discipline, the logistics of climbing in Yosemite, and the extra gear that you'll need to get started. Mina Leslie-Wujastyk. Escape the crowds and try out somewhere new! Sep 4, 2023 · For the hillwalking Munroist, the peaks of the Cuillin Ridge have a formidable reputation, requiring both difficult route finding and technical scrambling on often highly exposed and serious ground. He was also on the route setting team for Tokyo 2020, where he gained experience of working in the Olympic Games Aug 4, 2024 · Climbing at the Paris 2024 Olympics kicks off tomorrow morning. Most visiting climbers from the UK come to Sardinia to climb single-pitch sport climbs, often choosing a base such as Cala Gonone or Ogliastra so that they can combine a beach holiday with climbing. Aside from being Apr 7, 2025 · Ruby Petch and Solly Kemball Dorey run us through their pick of the Top 10 boulders in the South West, comprising hard boulders (and the occasional one that might be slightly more doable) from It is definitely worth having a decent topo from one of the guidebooks though. However, I thought it would be useful to go back to basics to consider the principles underpinning grades and style and the relationship between the two and then put it into Nov 8, 2018 · His books include Wide-eyed and Legless, Inside the Tour de France, Creagh Dhu Climber, and Up and Down Under, an account of the British and Irish Lions 2001 rugby tour of Australia. Shunning traditional gender roles of the '40s and '50s, Gwen first tried her hand as a driver and dispatch rider in the Army, a forester, winkle-picker, helmsman of a schooner, artist's model and mountain guide before focusing on crime writing from the Morocco is home to several popular climbing destinations; the sport climbing of Todra Gorge, the huge limestone big walls of Taghia and of course the high peak of Jebel Toubkal. If you don't know quite know how the rules works, or what it's all about, then you're in the right place. Babies born on the day of the historic Everest ascent of May 29 Jan 30, 2012 · In this article, Glenmore Lodge Senior Instructor George McEwan takes a look at a study of ice anchors and explores the findings. The picturesque granite eggs of Tafraoute are well photographed and offer some interesting bouldering, but sat above them, not quite as photogenic and not quite as well known The beautiful forested area around Fontainebleau is well known amongst climbers as a bouldering "Mecca. . Jul 5, 2023 · Almscliff - or 'The Cliff' as it's affectionally known - is the quintessential Yorkshire Gritstone crag. There are a wealth of classic E2s in Pembroke, so much so that it's hard to know where to begin. Feeling loved. Eternal Flame runs up the right skyline of the tower, which is actually its south buttress. However do not fear! In this article UKC Chief Editor Jack Geldard looks at 10 routes that are well suited to that most masochistic Aug 30, 2013 · The deep water soloing season is upon us so here is an in-depth destination guide to the world famous DWS paradise of Mallorca with news of a new publication from Rockfax. It was an amazing feat of mountaineering, route-finding and endurance. Read a UKC article about the Creagh Dhu Club, based around Jeff's book Creagh Dhu Climber. The health benefits of our sport are often touted within our Strawberries (E6 6b) is a fierce crack-line taking the challenge of the overhanging headwall at the top of the Vector Buttress on the famous Craig Bwlch y Moch area of Tremadog. Arguably the most iconic symbol in the history of the sport, this short sharp exercise in rope management needs Jul 28, 2022 · Rapidly deteriorating conditions across the European Alps due to rising temperatures are forcing mountain guides, their clients and independent teams to change their objectives as the risk of Feb 12, 2025 · Twelve months since he was appointed CEO of the British Mountaineering Council, UKC sent Paul Ratcliffe some questions about overcoming the financial and structural challenges that the organisation Dec 27, 2024 · UKC'S Top Ascents of 2024 Article Share Xa White & Natalie Berry 27th December, 2024 May 21, 2020 · Mick Ward shares another retrospective, this time of the 1960s climbing scene: The 'Vector Generation. Ready for an A5 adventure? For 2016 you'll need Jan 6, 2016 · The Catalan destination of Margalef is well known throughout the world for its awesome steep walls and super hard routes, hence its popularity for hard first ascents and repeats. Apr 3, 2011 · Climbing a 7A boulder is a big milestone, and one that - for most people - is the culmination of years of dedication and hard work. Many of our articles are contributed by our users and include everything you need to help plan a trip. As increasing numbers flock to the fells, has the Lake District become a victim of its own popularity? Oct 4, 2018 · In addition to being Britain's first female mountain guide and a talented climber, Gwen Moffat carved out a career as an accomplished writer. " However for newcomers it can prove to be a somewhat baffling maze of blocs, roads, A destination guide to one of Yorkshire's best gritstone crags. With the most up to date info possible it uses the Dec 18, 2012 · Topher Dagg and Sebastien Rider, authors of the new guidebook '7aMax Scottish Sport', give us a tour of low to mid grade sport venues in Scotland. Of the current list of 282 Munros, 12 are on Skye, with 11 of those on the main Cuillin Ridge itself. Just how strong are abolokov threads and re-bored ice screws? Read on and find out! Early last winter a new study analysing ice climbing anchor strength appeared on the internet. This article gives suggestions of classic routes, a brief history and some stunning photographs. Apr 1, 2010 · This brand new UKC mini-series combines words, photos, diagrams and video to make it easy to grasp some of the trickier aspects of climbing. The instructions are clear and Aug 4, 2015 · Tom Gore gives an insight into some of the lesser-known and lesser-travelled Southern Sandstone spots. In January 2015, online engagement with climbing-related searches had grown by 69% from January 2014 thanks to Feb 21, 2024 · Looking to make the step up to multi-pitch routes? British Mountain Guide Polly Harmer recommends her top beginner spots in North Wales. Old shoes Garrett Gregor was the Head Setter for the Boulder event in the Paris 2024 Games. Suffering Jan 22, 2024 · UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Anna Fleming DESTINATION GUIDE: Langdale: 10 Crags for a Lakeland Rock Apprenticeship 4 Jul, 2024 ARTICLE: 20 Tips for More Sustainable Climbing 15 May, 2024 INTERVIEW: Catherine Destivelle - Rock Queen 8 Mar, 2024 ARTICLE: Herstory 7: The Rise of Women Mountain Professionals 27 Dec, 2023 Feb 20, 2025 · Fraser McKechnie charts his evolution from bouldering newbie to keen trad and alpine climber, a journey made possible through his membership of a University club. Article Being Weak When Once You Were Strong Chris Hamper writes about his experiences travelling and presenting the film The Parkinson's Project, and how his relationship with climbing continues, alongside his Parkinson's. Aug 14, 2015 · What do you do once your climbing gear is past its best? The best option for getting rid of old gear would be to donate it to a charity or organisation that could still make good use of it. On Monday 18 May 2020 John Allen tragically lost his life in a fall Jan 17, 2023 · In this article, I'd like to suggest that climbing and autism enjoy a unique relationship, beyond that of a typical special interest, and that climbing provides autistic people with a route to a more social and colourful existence. Thank you to Antoine Le Menestrel who kindly gave us permission to publish his diary and to Phil Kelly and Chris Gore who arranged the article. Nov 9, 2022 · Anna Fleming profiles four women from the archives of climbing history, and gives us a glimpse into the origins of women in mountaineering. Jan 26, 2016 · 3: Go subterranean. If you've been trad climbing on your local crags and In this article and accompanying video we are concerned with point 3 in Adrian's five point plan : Clip-Drop Technique What is Clip Drop Technique? You climb a route at a climbing wall and when you reach a safe height you clip your rope into a bolt, then simply let go and fall. What is bouldering? How to get started? What kit is needed? Where to go? All the answers, plus inspirational Apr 3, 2011 · In this article experienced climber Bart van Deenen shares his personal experiences of beating elbow tendonitis and gives us an exercise routine that worked for him. Mark Glaister gives us a brief tour of this accessible valley and points the way to Feb 2, 2015 · In this article, UKC Chief Editor Jack Geldard takes us up the North Face of the Eiger. Two members of another Italian party attempting the route who had, already exhausted, joined Cassin's team, died from exposure and exhaustion on the Oct 3, 2017 · John Cullen was born in 1928 and brought up in Maryhill, Glasgow. You then climb to the next bolt, clip it and fall, until you reach the anchors at the top of the wall. Over 150 athletes travelled the lengths of the UK and beyond to compete at the weekend. Related UKC Articles: For more info on climbing in the Dolomites see this - UKC Destination Article also by James Rushforth UKC ARTICLE: Brandler-Hasse - The harder neighbour of the Comici UKC Logbook Information: Tre Cime Mar 3, 2025 · Recovering mountaineer Norman Hadley ponders the many, varied, and often ludicrous ways to get into a pickle in the snow. Jun 13, 2024 · Many of our articles are contributed by our users. Here we have outlined five 'classics' alongside five 'others'. Want to know how they did the climbing stuff in Mission Impossible 2? Was it Tom Cruise? An exclusive chat with a guy who did the stunt cameras gives you the low-down. There are Apr 14, 2022 · UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Mick Conefrey ARTICLE: Because it's Mallory, and he's still There 9 May, 2024 ARTICLE: Kangchenjunga - The Last Great Mountain 25 May, 2020 John Hunt - The Forgotten Hero of Everest? 14 Nov, 2012 Jul 26, 2017 · Reverend Bob Shepton is not your average 82 year-old. Climbers and runners may be familiar with training, but hillwalkers, backpackers and mountaineers can also benefit from a regular regime, says MCI and Strength & Conditioning Coach Tom Horrocks. It all leads me to think about convergence: the coming together of two or more things. From soft catches to giving out biscuits, there's some tips here for Aug 20, 2021 · Charlie Creese remembers the character that was Athol Whimp, New Zealand's most accomplished mountaineer and the country's sole recipient of the Piolet d'Or award to date, who died Sep 14, 2020 · UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Gwen Moffat ARTICLE: Hard Knocks on Ben Nevis 8 Feb, 2021 ARTICLE: A 1959 DIY Mountain Rescue on Ben Nevis, by Gwen Moffat 3 Dec, 2020 ARTICLE: Winter as it Was - The Helm Wind 24 Dec, 2018 ARTICLE: Gwen Moffat - Thoughts on viewing Psycho Vertical 19 Dec, 2017 Latest Articles Features Share: Dec 27, 2023 · The Herstory articles have uncovered the hidden history of women's mountaineering and climbing, from the early ladies who chased up British peaks in the 1700s, to the forgotten women making Apr 18, 2025 · In an account first published in Mountain Magazine in 1991, Robert Durran and the late Brendan Murphy - one of the most gifted mountaineers of his generation - endure a gruelling ordeal on the Dec 22, 2016 · ABOUT THE GUIDE: The topos and maps from this article are taken from the new definitive Climber's Club Pub Guide to Dartmoor. These beautiful and atmospheric crags have been a key destination for each generation of climbers since Nov 3, 2022 · Tom Ripley shares some tips on how to keep hold of wires, even when they seem like they might be lost forever. But that isn't all Morocco has to offer. The limestone rock-faces are some of the largest and most In this short article UKC Chief Editor Jack Geldard looks at a few simple and not so simple ways of improving your belaying. I don't want to mythologise the guy - he was a mate, after all - but that Jan 29, 2024 · Scafell Pike on a sunny Bank Holiday can be more manic than the cities people left to get there. This article shows one of my favourite and most simple methods that I often use to tie in to a double bolt belay when I am multipitch sport climbing and am 'swinging leads'. Aug 20, 2024 · Birat Anupam shares the story of the last surviving member of the Everest 1953 expedition, Kanchha Sherpa of Namche Bazaar, Nepal. It's absolutely crammed with classics, which are densely packed together, Jan 2, 2020 · The latter half of the 2010s brought 9c, 9A and new horizons in women's climbing. UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Jeff Connor Winter Alpinism is cold and serious, and can seem inaccessible. Easily accessible, abundant in low to mid grade problems and with extremely reliable weather, the area is a fantastic Apr 19, 2021 · John Fleetwood, author of Cicerone's two updated Lake District scrambling guides, lifts the lid on some of his favourite hands-on routes on the fells. May 27, 2020 · Graham Hoey remembers friend and gritstone legend John Allen, who died earlier this month in a climbing accident in the Peak. This eagerly anticipated new definitive guide is packed with tongue-in-cheek Devonian wit, plus some 600 routes and 1200 boulder problems with full photo-topos. 0 22 Jul REVIEW: Unparallel Float - support with sensitivity 27 Jun In this article Peter gives us a feel for multi-pitch sport climbing on Sardinia's east coast and explains how to tackle these routes. After all, the climber is placing their Apr 1, 2007 · Under-rated and often overlooked, the Picos de Europa is Northern Spain's hidden secret! A huge area of wild limestone peaks offering rock climbers and mountaineers a wealth of routes in a range Destination Lofoten – a 'must-visit' venue? The Rockfax guide to Lofoten has generated plenty of interest in this venue. With kit lists, tactics and route info, plus history, videos and useful links - this is your one stop Eiger Oct 11, 2015 · The cliffs of Ailladie or "The Burren" are situated on the west coast of Ireland in County Clare near the tourist hot spot of the Cliffs of Moher. UKC Editor Jack Geldard takes any would-be boulderer through the basics. The spectacular pinnacle of Napes Needle is Lakeland rock's ultimate must-do. "Whilst not perhaps on the usual This summer, the Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival heads into it's third year, highlighting the heights and heritage of Lake District climbing. Jan 22, 2020 · Paul Sagar explores why climbing accidents - specifically ground falls - are rarely discussed openly The bond between a climber and a belayer is sacred. Jul 6, 2018 · Natalie Berry explores the growing indoor climbing wall industry and the opportunities and challenges that a boom in popularity presents Figures from the Association of British Climbing Walls Mar 9, 2017 · The limestone crags around the town of Leonidio in the Peloponnese region of mainland Greece have been described as "the new Kalymnos" and "possibly the next big thing in European Antoine's ascent is surely up there with some of best in history, not only for the physical and mental challenge, but for the repercussions it had on the top British climbers at the time. The qualification rounds and finals for Under 13s and Under 17s took place on Saturday, followed by the qualification rounds and finals for Under 15s and U Apr 24, 2024 · UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Inigo Atkin My Favourite Route: Inigo Atkin - The Axe, E4 6a 13 Mar ARTICLE: Climbing and Class - How Economic Privilege Underpins Our Experience 26 Sep, 2019 ARTICLE: Smart Casual - Discussions on Performance from Everyday to Elite 22 Jan, 2018 Oct 23, 2019 · Coaching Kids - 7 ways 7 Year Olds Learn to Climb Article Share Ari Schneider 23rd October, 2019 Jan 11, 2024 · Hazel Findlay shares the bad habits that climbers can pick up - and fall into - when it comes to practising falling Fall practice is a slightly sticky subject in climbing. From this high place of gratitude I look below to what my life has been, feeling happy for the rewarding paths I've walked. This article details the remit of the award, how to register for it and what exactly it covers. Following on from her article earlier in the month detailing her top five physical techniques for shorter climbers, Tina Breslin explores some psychological approaches to help climbers of all sizes, but which might be particularly helpful for those at the shorter end of the spectrum! The first article in a series of three, Olly Tippett provides an introduction to his Big Wall Skills series, including an introduction to the discipline, the logistics of climbing in Yosemite, and the extra gear that you'll need to get started. Oct 9, 2012 · Trad Climbing in the African sun - Checkout this article on a great winter destination Oct 13, 2007 · Karen became paraplegic in a climbing incident 15 years ago ( a fall that also broke her skull, neck, ribs, and arms), but since then has undertaken many non climbing adventures (kayaking the inside Sep 17, 2015 · In 1937, over the course of three days, Riccardo Cassin and his two friends forced a line up the massive NE Face of Piz Badile in the Bregaglia on the Swiss-Italian border. Here I speak to Mar 4, 2020 · Charlie Creese remembers close friend and '80s climbing legend, Andy Pollitt, who died aged 56 last November. Perhaps less well The peaks of the Dolomites are characteristically steep, with huge faces and towering summits often breaching 3000m in altitude. For the ultimate in dark, greasy fun, why not try a kind of 'caving route' that is climbing, but not as we know it! There are loads to go at throughout the UK, classics such as Preposterous Tales (E2 5b) in Pembroke, to lesser known adventures like The Light That Didn't Shine (XS) at Gogarth, and there are plenty more out there too. With dozens of well-protected, quality How to Climb El Cap: Part 1 The first article in a series of three, Olly Tippett provides an introduction to his Big Wall Skills series, including an introduction to the discipline, the logistics of climbing in Yosemite, and the extra gear that you'll need to get star Jun 23, 2017 · The Val di Mello in Italy has become famous internationally over the past decade through the Melloblocco bouldering festival, which takes place every year in early May and brings together thousands Grades and style - by Simon Lee There has been much discussion of late regarding grading systems on the forums to a point where it was nicely sent up by Steve McClure reporting his New Thing at Raven Tor (UKC News). Add a further nine Munro 'Tops' (satellite peaks), of which eight are on the Cuillin Ridge, and In mainland Europe, climbing is gaining ground as an alternative form of therapy for both physical and psychological injuries and illness. The West Face of Nameless Tower. Nestled in the southern Lakes is the beautiful Duddon Valley home to roadside and mountain crags of dark rhyolite. As increasing numbers flock to the fells, has the Lake District become a victim of its own popularity? Mar 4, 2020 · Charlie Creese remembers close friend and '80s climbing legend, Andy Pollitt, who died aged 56 last November. May 13, 2009 · The sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey are the stuff of legend. 'If you can remember it, you Oct 21, 2019 · I was recently diagnosed with Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S) and the article below is a mixture of my story and more detailed information on the dangers of low energy availability in sport. Indeed Lofoten has become a bit of a hip destination in recent years, with visits from the likes of Ben Moon and Chris Bonnington! Despite this many climbers' desire to visit this remote destination have been tempered by the cost of getting there – the place really is Jul 25, 2019 · Albarracin is an extremely popular bouldering destination in eastern Spain. Apr 2, 2020 · UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Rob Greenwood UKC DESTINATION GUIDE: The Finest E2s in Pembroke 13 Aug DESTINATION GUIDE: The Finest E1s in Pembroke 4 Aug REVIEW: Edelrid Ohmega - An Absolute Game Changer 25 Jul REVIEW: Boreal Mutant 3. bzwqt cru qgjj nkaevp lnvt tmhch era rwp zmcqein xuobdan